The Norse Gods of Travel Weather continue to reward us for shrugging off cold days of rain and low cloud.

We really enjoyed yesterday, despite it being our second day of unremitting gloom. Weaving our way through the islands and fjords north of the Lofotens on our way to Tromso, the high ridges and mountains alongside us darkly muted, monotoned by cloud and mist, and hauntingly beautiful. Mountains have many moods, it seems.

Tromso is Hurtigruten’s home base, and the largest city in northern Norway. It was raining, cold and miserable when we arrived, but off we went, smothered in our cold-plus-wet-weather gear, for a few hours walk. It was Saturday, and the day after the Northern Summer Solstice, when people in higher latitudes traditionally celebrate the warmest time of the year. Warm – oh, really?

We were also lucky enough to experience a little of Norway’s true warmth. In Tromso, the Solstice is celebrated by the running of the Midnight Sun Marathon. We’d never heard of it before. Rain-drenched streets were blocked off, the Start and Finish arches were inflated, banners were everywhere, and all was ready for the race. We didn’t see the main event, but we watched something infinitely better – the little kids of Tromso running their own mini-Midnight Sun Marathon.

Toddlers and kids, many in their favourite dress-ups, ran, walked, waddled or (if babies) were carried or pram-pushed through the cold, rainy streets to the finish line, supported by enthusiastic parents and grandparents, and cheered along by the crowd. They were all drenched but nobody cared. It was magic to watch and made you fall in love with Tromso, Norway, and the Norwegians.

Then, today, the Gods rewarded us with a glorious, sunlit day. Cold, but clear and sunny. We’re now above 71° North and starting to sail East across the top of Norway towards Russia.