Sometimes, travel offers small experiences that are both unexpected and really special.

We were struggling with Hallstatt’s solidly traditional Austrian cuisine, like the wiener schnitzel, dumplings, goulash and lashings of potatoes offered by local cafes and restaurants, and were looking for something lighter and fresher. Well, to be more honest, I was the one who was struggling. Ian was perfectly happy in a wiener schnitzel and potato heaven of his own. But both of us were looking for food that was a little less, well … overwhelming. And that is how we were lucky enough to meet Ursula and Josef.

Ian noticed it. A little café and takeaway called Simple 169, tucked into the street alongside the lake. We went in, and immediately felt at home. It was warm and welcoming, very hip, and very un-Hallstatt.

A voice from the kitchen – Ursula – welcomed us and introduced us to Flammkuchen, traditional fare from Austria and the Alsace region of France, where they originated as sacrificial pieces of dough to test the heat of wood ovens. Delicate baked wafers, topped with all sorts of goodies – pesto, maybe. Sheep’s cheese. Olives. Capsicum. Speck. Lots of choices. Light, delicious and filling. Perfect.  Very unlike Hallstatt, and yet still totally traditional.

We kept going back there. It was welcoming, the coffee was the best Ian has yet tasted in Europe, and I could explore my new-found appetite for Flammkuchen and hot drinking chocolate. And there was more yummy tucker, like Ursula’s Zwetschkenkuchen, a traditional cake made with little Austrian plums called Swetschke. For an English speaker, Zwetschkenkuchen is almost impossible to spell let alone say, but after muttering the name to myself for hours I can manage it reasonably well.

Somehow, with talent and hard work in spades, Ursula and Josef have created a little miracle in traditional Hallstatt, slipping across the divide between traditional Austrian café culture and today’s world. Their café (formerly a fish-processing business) is busy and popular, and makes people happy as soon as they walk in the door. It’s tiny and hip, with décor assisted by a graphic designer friend whose beautiful photos of local people are on the wall. Ursula and Josef are both from Hallstatt, having lived other lives elsewhere before returning to the village to start their new venture.

The real miracle is that this little slice of heaven in Hallstatt has only been open for 3 weeks. We thought it had been there for a long time, slowly building up its popularity and friendly atmosphere. It’s a testimony to vision and hard work, and an amazing achievement.

I have absolutely no idea what it was that drew Ursula and I to talk to each other. We are from different worlds, yet we were instantly interested in each other. It was such a pity that our time in Hallstatt was so short, otherwise we might have had many happy conversations together.

So … if you ever have the good fortune to visit Hallstatt, do visit Ursula and Josef. They will make you most welcome.

And to Ursula – I still have your note so I know how to spell Zwetschkenkuchen, and I can still say it too if I concentrate hard enough! It was wonderful meeting you, we wish you all the success you so deserve, and thank you both for making our stay in Hallstatt so very special.